An attempt to create text that should be too good to eat. Posts will be irregular, but always focusing on food. Without a camera I have only words with which to tempt you and links to recipes to show you. The posts will range from food porn to menus, to reviews of other sites and the odd ramblings of a woman who enjoys food.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Quickest chicken stock by Marc Bittman
The recipe promises to be the quickest and simplest yet tastiest stock ever made. High praise for something so very simple. The complex notes of browned bones & cooked meets are not present, but the stock is very light in color and flavour--perfect for heavily spiced dishes and most soups, but probably not my favourite to use when cooking rice or polenta; where I'm more use to the complex notes of a roasted stock.
The recipe starts simple enough - wash a chicken, pat it dry and put it in a stock pot. My chicken had spent about a day too long in the fridge, so it definitely needed a bath. It was, however, completely thawed, and once washed free of the blood and inner organs - smelled much better. I patted it dry and dutifully put it in my largest stock pot. Note to self: I need a bigger stock pot.
I put the inner organs (lungs and livers) into a bag, labeled it, and put them in the freezer. The labeling is most important when freezing organ meats that, once frozen, may be mistaken for other foods (like, say hamburger). The whole oh-my-goodness-what-did-I-thaw-and-how-can-I-now-make-this-work scenario is just bad and should be avoided at all costs (especially when the cost to avoid it is about $2.43 - 1 permanent marker and 1 roll masking tape). Trust me on this. I speak from experience here.
The ingredients are what you'd expect for a stock (celery, carrots and onions). The spices (thyme, bay, salt, and parsley) are kept very light. I was surprised at the absence of pepper, but as tempted as I was to put it in, I didn't. I am so very proud.
As is my habit, I gathered all the ingredients together, prepped them according to the directions, then added them along with the water to the stock pot. I skinned the onions, even though you don't need to do this -- I decided I wanted to see how pale this stock was going to get. Adding onions skins to your stock will darken it (sometimes significantly). I just chopped the vegetables -- since they were not for serving, I wasn't careful in regards to regularity or shape. This, in part, is what makes this recipe so quick to make.
My pot wouldn't quite hold 14 cups of water; so I settled for 10 and was ready to add more water when/if the level reduced. I have three stock pots - all of which are about the same size. I've been told I already have too many pots and pans (and dishes, and kitchen gegaws, and kitchen appliances, and so on and so forth) so I strongly doubt bringing a *bigger* pot into the kitchen would garner any kind of approval. As I was preparing this I did wonder if I could make this in the crockpot instead of on the stove top (as my crock pot would easily hold the 14 cups of water + ingredients)... but my goal was to prepare the recipe as closely to as written as possible. So...
I put it on the stove, brought it to a very gentle boil, then covered it and reduced the heat. After a few minutes I realized why the instructions say cover but not completely. Once I got the over-boil cleaned up, I moved it to a new burner and started again. I am happy to say that there was no scum to remove from the top of the pot. Maybe because it was so croweded, or maybe it all came out in the overboil; I don't know. I've always hated skimming scum off the top of stock. It feels very wasteful, somehow.
The chicken boiled gently for about an hour. It made the house smell great. Because my pot was small, I flipped the chicken over at about the 1/2 hour mark and added some more water to the pot. The level of water didn't reduce as much as I thought it would; but then the gentle boil didn't produce a lot of steam.
There's lots of blog posts out there about how to make great stock. A common trend seems to be to really squeeze the vegetables when they're strained from the liquid. Following this advice, I set up three bowls. One for the stock (once strained), one for the chicken, and one for the vegetables.
I turned the left-over vegetables into a near puree inside my strainer; working them over until my hands ached and the remains were nearly bone-dry. While not very appetizing to look at, it did make discarding the vegetables easier, as by the time I was done there was very little liquid left to leak out into the trash and, eventually, onto my stocking feet; where, if there is any trash liquid, it is inevitably drawn.
I put the whole chicken in another bowl to sit and cool before skinning and deboning it. Note to self: patience is a lesson easily learned when the alternative is burnt fingers.
The chicken is still very tasty and moist and cooked through. I'll be using it throughout the week in other dishes and trying to remember to get the bits I don't use into the freezer before the week's end. Note to self: Waste not, want not.
I then covered the stock and placed in the fridge, where it quickly formed a skin. The stock is a pale golden color (I love my clear Pyrex bowls, ... and my blue Pyrex bowls, ... and well - I have a lot of bowls in my kitchen).
This recipe was indeed the simplest recipe I've ever followed to make chicken stock on the stove; but it doesn't differ very much from my method of making chicken stock in the crock pot (except there I use mostly cooked bones, necks, backs, and organ meats with a few choice vegetables and some seasonings... in other words - whatever's wilted in the fridge). For this recipe none of the vegetables were wilted--I even went out and bought fresh. For me this is pretty revolutionary.
I like having stock in my fridge/freezer. I love making soups and using it as a base for grain dishes (like the rice and polenta I mentioned previously), and in stir-frys or to deglaze a pan. Note to self: If freezing it in ice-cube trays again, this time remember to label the ice cube tray. Chicken stock in soda is ... unappealing.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Carnitas, my way
What follows is actually 2 recipes; the first takes a bit of preparation, and the second can be thrown together easily for a quick and delicious week night meal.
Beef brisket
This dish takes a bit of planning, but once made can be the source of several delicious meals.
Notes
There are tons of recipes like this out on the internet, and they're all about the same. Cover the meat with some kind of sauce, season to taste and cook until the meat's ready to fall apart. Most briskets are really fatty--but most of the fat dissolves into the sauce while cooking.
This recipe produces a very beefy-flavored beef brisket. It has no kick for a reason -- namely that, as the ingredient for other recipes, I wanted something fairly mild in flavor.
As always, season to taste.
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 10 hours
Serves: 6-10
Equipment
- Chopping board and knife.
- Measuring cups and spoons.
- Deep frying pan with cover.
- Wooden spoon.
- Crock pot
Ingredients
| 1 | Onion, roughly diced |
| 3 cups | Chicken stock |
| 1 | Carrot, roughly diced |
| 1 stalk | Celery, roughly diced (leaves included) |
| 2 cloves | Garlic, skinned and chopped in half |
| 1 | Bay leaf |
| 2 cups | Ketchup |
| 1 teaspoon | Cumin |
| 1 teaspoon | Oregano |
| 1/2 teaspoon | Salt |
| 1 teaspoon | Black pepper, freshly ground |
| 1 | green bell pepper, seeded and rougly chopped |
Directions
- Combine the ingredients in the crock pot.
- Set on low and cook for 8-10 hours.
- Remove the meat from the crock pot and pull it apart with 2 forks.
- Reserve the liquid separately.
Carnitas Tacos
A great way to use up pulled beef, this quick and easy meal can be served dozens of ways (covered in sauce, fried, etc); but this is the recipe that works best for me.
Notes
Caramelizing onions is a neat trick to add sweetness to a dish, but it's not always necessary. If you're in a rush, just cook the onions until they are translucent.
You can use flour tortillas (or any kind of flat bread) for this dish, but I prefer corn tortillas (the non-deep fried not from El Paso kind).
I like to add my heat at the table (thus I serve this with salsa). Feel free to add some kick with a blend of chili pepper, red pepper flakes and a few drops of choice chipotle peppers or hot sauce.
As always, season to taste.
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 with leftovers
Equipment
- Chopping board and knife.
- Measuring cups and spoons.
- Deep frying pan with cover.
- Wooden spoon.
Ingredients
| 1 | Onion, finely diced |
| 1/2 cup | Chicken stock |
| 2 cloves | garlic, finely diced |
| 1 teaspoon | Cumin |
| 1 teaspoon | Oregano |
| 1 teaspoon | Olive oil |
| 2 cups | Beef brisket, pulled |
| 1/2 cup | Beef brisket sauce |
| 1 cup | Cheese, finely grated |
| 12 | Corn tortillas |
| 2 cups | Salsa (optional) |
Directions
- Put the olive oil in the bottom of a cold pan and bring it to temperature.
- Add the onions and stir to coat.
- Cook until the onions have caramalized, reducing the temperature as needed to make sure they don't stick or burn. Stir often.
- Add the garlic and herbs and cook until fraigrant.
- Add the beef brisket and sauce, stiring to incorporate.
- Add another teaspoon of olive oil in a second pan.
- Warm a corn tortilla, flipping when pockets begin to form.
- Fill the tortia with 3 teaspoons of the meat and sauce mixture.
- Add a pinch of cheese and roll.
- Place on a plate, seam side down.
- Cover to keep warm.
- Repeat until the beef mixture and/or the tortilla are gone.
- Serve immediately with salsa.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Everything soup
Serves 8-10 (or 6 generously with leftovers for a good lunch)
Time to make: 1 hour (total). 45 minutes prep time;
could have been faster but I was fussy and disorganized.
Equipment:
- Cutting board & Chef's knife
- Pairing knife
- Frying pan & spatula
- Big soup pot & spatula
- Immersion blender
Notes:
It was a circus. Three-rings, no waiting.
Here I stood, in the center of a milling crowd. The stock was chillin' and completely ignorant that it would soon be boiling. There was a lone carrot amidst the crowd. His posse had left him, and while he was a big fellow and pretty tough, he still looked strange all alone. The celery saw him and wilted. It was obvious she had a thing, but he was oblivious to it. The jalapeno was fresh, but no one seemed to mind. The onions were red. With what I never figured out, but they were sweet to me, at least.
The mushrooms fresh while the green onions were old and withered. The black beans were stirring in their own juices, and pretty tough to boot. The potatoes, red wine, tomato paste, and meatballs - frozen. I think they've been hanging out with the stock for too long. The parsley was fresh while the cilantro was definitely on the way out. The tin of tomatoes was just there. It didn't initially interact with anything.
So, how did this crowd of nobodies, forgotten souls, and aging ingredients become Mexican meatball soup?
Simple really, I cleaned out my fridge and freezer, gathering everything that was so low in quantity that it could no longer be the star of the meal or so old it shouldn't be left alone. This meal is definitely an ensemble cast. The recipe is provided more to prove that you really can make a good soup from a disparate set of sources. I doubt I'll casually have all the ingredients again in the same quantity.
- The stock is homemade from beef bones for a Pho Bo. The stock itself was highly aromatic, fairly thick and flavourful.
- The meatballs were homemade following Marc Bittman's Italian Meatballs recipe. They were a bit black on some sides (I cooked them with the pan too hot).
- The tomato paste and red wine were frozen in ice-cube like shapes in my freezer; leftovers from a time of plenty.
- The cilantro and celery were dying in my crisper, and the carrot was the last one in the bag.
- The black beans were homemade with lots of cilantro and cumin.
- The cauliflower was starting to turn, so I cut it up for snacking. About 1/2 a cup wouldn't fit in the container -- so it went into the soup.
- I'm part of a VG and this week I got red onions, instead of yellow this week. What the hey.
- The green onions were well past their prime, but always make a good soup topper.
Pros: very tasty, especially on a cold winter night. It also smelled really good and used up a lot of vegetables that would have otherwise spoiled.
Cons: I should have let the mess (beans+tomatoes+broth) cook down for about 1/2 an hour before I started cooking or held off on about 1/2 the broth, or thickened it somehow. Maybe the beans and tomatos should have been strained first? Either that or serve it with a really good (day old) bread.
Ingredients
| 1 | carrot, peeled and finely diced |
| 3-4 stocks | celery, leaves removed & diced |
| 2 cups | baby potatoes, frozen |
| 2 cups | black beans (do not drain or rinse) |
| 1 can | diced tomatoes |
| 1 | red onion, finely diced |
| 1 bunch | cilantro, to taste, finely diced |
| 1 bunch | parsley, to taste, finely diced |
| 2 tablespoons | red wine |
| 2 tablespoons | butter, divided |
| 24 | meatballs |
| 6 | button mushrooms, large dice |
| 6 cups | beef stock |
| 2 tablespoons | tomatoes paste |
| 1 | jalapeno pepper, diced fine & seeds removed. |
| Salt, to taste | |
| Black pepper, to taste | |
| 1/2 cup | cauliflower, finely diced. |
| Romano cheese, freshly grated (topping) | |
| Green onions, sliced (topping) |
Instructions:
- Put the beef stock into a very large pot. Turn up the heat and bring it to a gentle boil.
- Add the potatoes and cook for 2-3 minutes.
- Remove the potatoes and set aside.
- Add 1/2 the butter to a frying pan. Dump in the carrot, celery and red onion (mirepoix) and the jalapeno pepper. Mix regularly until the onion becomes translucent.
- Add the mireaupoix to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Put the remaining butter into the frying pan. When the butter melts, add the mushrooms. Stir to coat.
- As the mushrooms start to change color add the red wine.
- Cook until almost all the liquid is gone.
- Add the mushrooms to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Open the can and add the diced tomatoes to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Add the meatballs to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Add the black beans (and juice) to the frying pan. Bring them to just below a boil.
- Using the immersion blender, mash the black beans into a paste. Stir to incorporate.
- Add the paste to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Add the tomato paste to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Add the parsley, cilantro, and cauliflower to the soup. Stir to incorporate.
- Cover and allow the soup to come to a gentle boil. Cook until the cauliflower is soft (about 5-10 minutes).
- Serve with grated Romano cheese and sliced green onions.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Crockpot Hamburger Soup
Equipment
- Measuring spoons and cups.
- Paring knife and cutting board.
- Can opener.
- Skillet (to brown the meat).
- Plate with paper towel (to drain the meat).
Modification/Notes
I keep consomme in my freezer whenever I can, store-brought broth can be used instead. Fresh tomatoes can be used, but you’ll have to dip them in boiling water to remove their skins before adding them to the recipe. I prefer to cut up my tomatoes before adding them.
Ingredients
| 2 lbs | hamburger |
| 2 tablespoons | garlic, minced |
| 1 large | onion, chopped finely |
| 1 (28 ounce) can | tomatoes (undrained) |
| 1 ¾ cups | water |
| 30 ounces | beef consomme, undiluted |
| 1-2 tablespoons | worcestershire sauce |
| 10 ounces | salsa |
| 5-6 | carrots, chopped |
| 5-6 stalks | celery, chopped |
| 1-2 | bay leaf |
| 1/2 teaspoon | Each: thyme, oregano, rosemary, and basil |
| black pepper, to taste | |
| grated Parmesan cheese, optional, to taste |
Instructions
- Brown the hamburger with the onion and garlic. Drain well.
- Add in all remaining ingredients except the Parmesan cheese, and turn the crockpot on low for 6 hours (or high for 3).
- Ladle into serving bowls and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and fresh ground black pepper just before serving.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Meatball soup
Version: 2.0
Serves: 6 (1 1/2 cups each)
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 35 minutes
Equipment
- Measuring cups & spoons.
- Cutting board & knife.
- Dutch Oven.
- Ladle.
- Stirring spoon.
Modification/Notes
The original recipe used canned beef broth and onion soup mix. Both taste good, but I wanted something lower in salt. So, I switched to chicken broth and real onion. I also reduced the amount of butter down to a tablespoon (from 2). I had 2 cups of rice (cooked in chicken broth) in my fridge - so I added it to the soup to positive effect.
Ingredients
- 38-ounces frozen meatballs
- 1 onion, minced
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 4 carrot(s), thinly sliced
- 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
- 26-ounces (6 cups) chicken broth, fat removed, low-sodium
- 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
- 3 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano (or 1/2 teaspoon fresh)
- 1 teaspoon dried basil (or 1/2 teaspoon fresh)
- 1 bay leaf
- coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
- 1/2 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, freshly grated
Instructions
- In a Dutch oven over medium heat, melt 1/2 the butter.
- Sauté the onion until the onion begins to become translucent.
- Add the carrots and celery, and continue to sauté for 4-5 minutes or until softened.
- Add all the other ingredients except the meatballs and the cheese.
- Bring to a boil.
- Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.
- Add meatballs; cover and simmer meatball soup 10 minutes longer.
- Remove the bay leaf before serving.
- Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.